Mar Del Plata - Buenos Aires again...

So, I'm back in Buenos Aires after spending my last 3 days in Mar Del Plata all tucked in bed with a fever and fucked up throat.

Feeling better today, so after we checked in to our nice little stylish hotel in Palermo, Buenos Aires, we went out and checked out the cool stores in this area. Got two nice Tee's and chillin in the room before we head out to have a look around La Boca.

Tomorrow afternoon we head back to Rio, and start getting ready for New Years!

Rio - Buenos Aires - Mar Del Plata

Christmas day - Spending it in Mar Del Plata, a coastal city here in Argentina.

Sun and beach. Doesn't matter if I see a christmas tree. I need cold weather, snow and christmas markets to feel the christmas spirit. Right now it's just vacation time, which isn't bad :)

From Rio with love

Day 2 in Rio, and I'm finally off my bus-jetlag. Today is/has been dedicated to check out the part of Rio where I'm staying at, Flamengo, which is between the centre and Copacabana. It's actuallt closer to the centre but anyways... Its much safer than the centre and right next to a little bay, where the view is amazing. Well, its amazing anywhere in Rio, but here I can see the Sugerloaf top, series of "islands" and turning 180 degrees I see Corcovado with the Jesus-statue. Rio is an AMAZING place, with strange contradictions everywhere. The beauty next to dangerous streets and areas, dirty and noisy in the middle of green landscapes.

Eva is finally joining me here tomorrow saturday, and on sunday we're flying to Buenos Aires (where I hear its about 33 degrees, all sun and no clouds. Ok...).

Leaving Vitoria

Tonite I'm getting on a 8-hour busride to Rio, thus I've traveled about 220+ miles (metric ones) from Maceio to Rio along the coast. Träsmak i baken is yet to come however :)

I really got to discover Vitoria on the last two day more or less, which is a pity, but it can be a confusing city. Especially when it was sooo hard to get any tourist information. Well well, I'll post some pics once I get to Rio.

Tchau for now!

Vitória..

..is also wet. Sunny yesterday when I arrived, but pouring down today. Am checking into a new hotel today, so will write about the stay so far then.

Hot & humid

I'm sweating...or I'm wet...or...you know. I haven't even thought about the humidity here, until today when it's about 90 percent and NOT raining. Don't mind it that much, except that about 30 sec after I've taken a shower I wanna do it again. Ah well, I won't complain'. Up in the north of Sweden the power is out because of the snow and cold. And without the man-made sun, it's dark up there. Really dark.

So, my 4 days in Arraial D'ajuda is coming to an end. I was planning on going to Caravelas and from there take a boat trip to the national park/islands 2 hours off the coast. But the it's raining there now and will keep raining the whole week so... And I just missed the 2,5 day trip, which left yesterday, so I'm gonna continue to Vitória tonite. An 8 hour overnight bus ride.

Arraial has been sooo nice. I love this little village and understand why alot people are buying houses here and keep coming back. Although I thought this would be high season and all the pousada would be packed, it still hasn't got going yet. I'm not complaining since I can still pick and choose where I want to stay and don't have to book in advance.

And this thing about blending in as a tourist. As long as I don't talk too much, I blend in really well. Especially here in Bahia, where 80% of the population is of color (that is darker, and of african descent). So people sometime has a hard time figuring me out, which I can tell by looks and their questions. "Do you live and work here or...?" Guess it's not too common to see a black guy traveling around by himself and just chillin on the beach. Apart from backpackers, I mostly see white, middle-class couples and families (upper middle-class I should say, since middle-class here in Brazil is basically everyone not living in poverty or opulence) from Sao Paolo and Rio traveling out of state to, for instance, Bahia. Even the beach vendors walking around selling food and "krims-krams" just ignores me 70% of the time. Which is a blessing I guess, but I still haven't gotten used to their funny reaction when they realize I'm not from around here. :) Or people assume that I'm in town playing music with a band, mainly because I have dreads and not dressed like a hippie. And it's happened more then a few times! I should just play along and be given the VIP treatment with the free drinks, afterparties and the club-promoters mansion with all the girls. Well, scratch that last thing...

Allright, next post will be from Vitoria hopefully. Be well, y'all.

...And next stop is Arraial da Ajuda...

The sun was shining as I got to Porto Seguro after a 9 hour bus ride during the night. Not so bad, but they did blast the A/C. Yes Roi, you told me but this was ridiculous. I was wearing not so thin jeans and an Adidas jacket + a "wind-stopper" and could still feel it. At least the seats were mad comfortable. And seeing the sun rise in a misty landscape was amazing. Got a few cool pics of it, which I will post as soon as I can. [Updated]

Arraial hasn't changed too much since I was last here in 2006. Still has a cosy feel to it. Checked in at a really beautiful pousada, where I have my own chalet. Pics are coming. [Updated]

And there might be a detour in my plans. A week in NYC, shooting a cool spot. More about that later.

Leaving Morro de São Paolo

Bus station in Valençia at night.

Misty morning arriving at Porto Seguro

Taking the ferry from Porto Seguro to Arraial D'ajuda

One of the squares. Church in background built by the slaves, as churches was of course segregated back then.

Arraial!

The road leading down to one of the beaches.

My pousada with all the chalets.

God is weeping

It rained today. I'm not talking about the little timid drizzle we get back home in Sweden. I'm talking about the heavens opening up and letting God weep for all the billions of sinners out there.

For real.

And since the infrastructure here in Morro is mainly sand streets, rain has a bit more impact than in your average asphalted city. But it's all good. I was getting an overdose of beaches and sun anyway.

For real.

Morro de Sao Paolo

Paradise?


From my "krypin" at one of the beaches.


Chillin' with my two new pals.


More beach.


Sandstreets only


My room in the pousada



My view


Chill!

Salvador

Pelourinho





The lift to Mercado Modelo

Morro de São Paolo

After a 2-hour boat ride reminiscent of a roller-coaster (I loved it, but a couple of people on the boat was throwing up their breakfast), I'm on the island of Tinharé and the town Morro de São Paolo. No cars allowed on the island, so it's pretty chilled to say the least. More to come...

Aracaju & Salvador

Friday night. Salvador. I'm at a restaurant/bar/internet café called bahiacafe.com . A really cool place which at first I thought would be a really touristy, cheesy place. But it's far from it. Really chilled, with a cool decor, nice staff and good food. I had the best grilled frango with potatoes and a cooooold Skol, while chatting on Skype. The music is playing outside on the Praça da Sé, with a choir of Bahian women. I love Salvador! Even thought a touristy feeling is present here in Pelourinho (The old part of Salvador, protected by UNESCO) is has a charm that is tangible. The old colorful buildings, white dressed plus-size bahian women sellin aracuje and the sound of berimbaus playing is unforgettable.

Last night I was in Aracaju, which honestly I could have skipped. So this morning I took the 7 hour bus drive towards Salvador, and here I am. The plan is to walk around here in Pelourinho tomorrow morning and then take a boat to the island of Tinharé and Morro de São Paolo. But the weather forecast is expecting rain! Well well, I've been lucky with a rain-free month in Maceió so it was bound to happen sometime. I will try to post some more pictures, but it's a bit more tricky since I only get access at internet café now, and they don't always allow hooking up your camera.

Now off the check out the streets and hopefully run into the band of samba musicians walking through the narrow streets playing. So bye for now...

Leaving Maceió...

The first week here in Maceió felt like an entire month, just trying to absorb learning a new language, meeting new people, gettin settled into the family I've been living with and getting somewhat familiar with the surroundings. Well, now it feels like I've only been here two weeks, even though it's been almost 5 weeks. I was supposed to leave last saturday, the 29th, but I had too much stuff going on and I hadn't planned my first few weeks on the road so I' ve been hanging around. And of course, the other reason is that I don't really feel like leaving. I've been fortunate to have made some real friendships here and even though I do want to explore the rest of Brazil, I've made a home here. 

But another big reason for me staying here a few extra days is that I'm waiting to get this illustration from my teacher. His name is Pedro Lucena and this guy is an amazing artist. Check out his flickr page at http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedrolucena . Just when I arrived to Maceio he had an exhibition of some of his work, which was of course sold out in a matter of days. There was some pieces that I loved and wanted to buy, so he said that he'd would make me an original piece inspired by the stuff at the exhibit. I'm so stoked to see what he's made! I'll get the illustration tomorrow, just before I head for the rodoviaria (bus station) and catch the bus to Acarajú. It's a small city/village between Maceió and Salvador. It's a 5 hour ride, so I'll stay there for the night and check out the village and beaches during the day before leaving for Salvador in the amazing state of Bahia!!! The rough plan for the rest of the trip down to Rio de Janeiro is as follows:

Salvador -> 

Morro de Sao Paolo -> 

Camamu & Itacaré -> 

Arriala de Ajuda (with day-trips to Trancoso and Caraiva) -> 

Caravelas & Parque Nacional dos Abrolhos (Protected park consisting of a set of island, with shallow coral reefs and amazing beaches I've been told. As no one is allowed to stay on the islands overnight, I'll be sleeping in a hammock on the boat under the stars :-) -> 

Vitoria -> 

Rio de Janeiro

I'll stay one night in Rio, meet up Eva and the next day we fly to Argentina for a week. We'll be back to Rio in time for New Years, which is gonna be sick! 1+ million people dressed in white on Copacabana and Ipanema with big bands playing music all night long, with a break for the new years countdown which culminates in a huge fireworks show over the water!!

Diferente

Not suprising a lot of things here a slightly different from back
home :) Not least the food and the price of it. The first thing I
noticed is that veggies, fruits and liquor is ridiculusly cheaper than
in Sweden. Big surprise! And some things that are not so cheap. Like
Moët champagne for 350 reais = 1300 sek!

Cachaca for 8 sek.

Pitu for 15 kr. Will set you back 246 sek i Sweden.

A better brand of cachaca. You get the point.

1+ kilo of prime meat = 47 sek.

Big ass water melons for about 3 sek.

1st month...

...is coming to an end. I've spent november here in Maceió, studying portuguese and slowly getting into vacation mode. I will truly miss this city, my new extended family and all the amazing people I've gotten to know. But before I leave for the south next week I'll make a last trip tomorrow saturday to Dunas do Marapé, an amazing beach about 60 km from Maceió.

Today.

At Praia do Francês. A different take on the typical super-saturated-paradise-beach pics.

p.s. Click for a bigger size.

A tiny collection of pics....

...from the weekend at Porto de Galinhas.

Sugar cane fields.


Fromt the pousada to the beach.


The Beach 1.


The Beach 2.


Origami at the pousada.


Pousada by night.

Back from...

Porto de galinhas, where I spent the weekend. Amazing beaches, warm water och cheap food and drinks. I just can't get tired of it. Pics are coming up, but tonite we shall toast cachaca with friends and be happy.

Full moon

There's a full moon tonite. It illuminates the sea and the beach as if there's a gigant spotlight pointed towards the sea. It's amazing. A cool sea breeze is blowing, making the temperature rest on a perfect 25 degrees. The beach walk is full of people enjoying the night.

Two ladies in their 60s are dressed from top 'til toe in smart Nike sportsware, out for a powerwalk as they gossip. A Fabio look-a-like is taking his muscles for a walk, trying to look as relaxed as possible. A young super-tanned street vendor is smiling back at me with a perfect Colgate-smile, trying to sell me some freshly made acaraje as I hear my stomach growling. From a bar, a few hundred meters away, I can hear some cool samba blasting from the speakers.

My feet are aching from the capoeira practice I just had. It took place at a park just two blocks from the beach, although we weren't standing on grass but on a concrete platform. We were just two students and our instructor Ulysses. With a name like that, you must be meant for greatness. The lesson ends with us singing a few songs that he taught us. He leads the song and we join in on the chorus. He occasionally throws in a few improvisational compliments in the songs as some beautiful ladies walked by, with it not going unnoticed by them. Always mackin'.

My friend Christine walks by, on her way to a samba lesson just on the other side of the park. As practice finish I walk with her to check it out. We meet up with some other familiar faces. Feeling too hungry, I leave them as the class begins. I can hear the sweet female vocals leading in the traditional samba drum beat behind me as I walk towards the beach and my way home.

I keep thinking how fortunate I am to experience this. Nothing is for granted.

Assorted pics